Comacchio

Comacchio is a surprise of uncrowded canals constructed on 13 islands in Emilia Romagna’s Po Delta. Like Venice, it was built along a lagoon and a network of waterways; instead of powerful doges it was overseen by cardinals and the Papal States, and exerted strength with its forceful fleet and its extensive salt trade. It straddles land and sea; in the early 1800s, one of the cardinals had some of the canals filled in to make it more accessible to his carriage. The canals aren’t true “waterways” anymore but alluring nonetheless, and the main canal is still used between the port and inland towns.

Comacchio’s answer to Rialto Bridge is the grand Trepponti, a brick beauty with five staircases leading to its panoramic summit. Lazy canals shoot off from it, lined with cute trattorias where you can sample the town’s specialty of grilled or baked eels, sole or other fresh fish. Many have tables along the canals, but some go further and have seating on boats right on the water. Speaking of boats, instead of gondolas, here you can take a ride in a batana, a flat-bottomed boat, guided by a person with a long pole (similar to the gondoliers use) but instead of breaking into song they'll sing the praises of the town, along with its history.

Stroll around the streets, mindful not to fall into the water (!) and enjoy the brightly-painted buildings, the churches with art on display, and some palazzi along the canals. The Museum of the Ancient Delta has impressive displays, especially the sunken Roman merchant ship that was dredged up here with its entire cargo aboard. The long Loggiato dei Cappucini is a column-studded covered walkway of 142 arches to reach the sanctuary at the edge of town. Just over three kilometers from the town is the Adriatric Sea. A boat trip through the Po Delta park reveals the area’s ecosystem and wildlife, while the Adriatic beaches are ablaze in sun and colorful umbrellas.

Unlike the larger and more developed splendor of Venice, here you'll find a low-key atmosphere, plenty of canals and bridges to skip across and a watery world to enjoy; what you won’t find are crowds.