Risotto alla Milanese is a classic and favored dish in Lombardia, one of the region's signature foods. It is a creamy dish made a rich golden hue by saffron. There are legends about its origins coming from workers at the Cathedral of Milan, though other experts believe it was a originally a Jewish dish -rice with saffron- brought to Lombardy. Either way, it's now so ingrained in this area that is known all over Italy (and the world) as Milanese risotto. (One note: to make it truly Milanese you'll want to add poached marrow from beef soup bones, as is the real tradition; add it after you've sauteed the onion. Many folks in other parts of Italy omit it, but to Milan's grandmothers that is blasphemy.)
INGREDIENTS
  • 400g (7 oz.) rice for risotto (arborio, vialone nano or carnaroli)
  • 1/2 onion, finely chopped
  • 40-50g (3 Tbs.) butter (plus a bit more for the mantecatura)
  • About 1/2 cup of white wine
  • 2 liter (1 qt.) broth, or q.b.
  • A pinch of saffron
  • 50-60g (2 oz) grated parmesan cheese, plus some more to serve at table

Instructions

Make a soffritto by sautéing the onion in the butter. When the onions have softened, add the marrow if you're using it; add the rice and stir to toast it without browning. Add a splash of white wine and let it evaporate.

Proceed with the risotto by adding one ladleful of broth at a time and stirring well, adding more when the previous broth has been absorbed. In a separate small saucepan, add the saffron to a bit of broth and simmer it to release its flavor and color into the broth. Leave until just before the rice is done. Continue to cook as usual. Add the saffron-infused broth at the end and stir well to release the creaminess of the rice starch. Just before serving, add the cheese and another dab of butter, stirring vigorously.

Risotto alla milanese is usually served more loose than firm; if you like your risotto a bit firmer, let it sit, covered, for a minute or two before serving.

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