The Summer In Italy Newsletter

The Trabocchi Coast

A beautiful coastline dotted with evocative wooden structures perched over the sea makes a lovely outing in Abruzzo. The so-called Costa dei Trabocchi is a 70-kilometer coast from Ortona to San Salvo, with coves and reefs below the hills that end at the Adriatic Sea. The star attraction are the trabocchi, primitive and yet complex working fishing platforms, constructed of wood that sit over the water. The protruding rods and overall form of the historic structures resemble giant wooden crabs, or a noted poet Gabriele D'Annunzio wrote, "colossal spiders". The elevated arms with nets attached to them are raised and lowered using pulleys and ropes, to bring in the catch of the day from the clear water below.

The trabocchi are throw-backs of a long-ago era, in use here since the 15th century, still in operation though in lesser numbers. They are fascinating remnants, and some are open as rustic restaurants. The platforms are on stilts perched over the water, reached by way of a rickety-looking boardwalk suspended from irregular poles and planks. Despite their delicate appearance, the trabocchi have been standing for years, a by-gone way of fishing that is kept alive here on the Abruzzo coast. The best part? You can now dine on a trabocco, a fabulous way to enjoy the water and the region's excellent fresh seafood dishes.

The Costa dei Trabocchi includes the towns of San Vito Chietino, Rocca San Giovanni, Fossacesia and Vasto. Here you'll find the platforms tucked in coves or on points, accompanied by pebble beaches with crystal-clear water.

Gioconda's Kitchen

Le Patate 'mporchettate - An Abruzzo Recipe

Potatoes, along with bread, have been a mainstay of the cucina povera of Abruzzo- filling, versatile and easy to grow in abundance. Even with little, a dish like this could feed the family and do in a tasty and satisfying way. 

The name "imporchettato" has a double meaning -first in preparing it "like porchetta" with the rosemary and garlic, and secondly because the lard "wraps" the potatoes in pork. Obviously, it can be adapted to a lighter and vegetarian version by using olive oil instead of lard.

Potatoes – 2 kilos (4.5 pounds)
4-5 cloves, garlic
2 sticks of fresh rosemary
100 grams of lard (or substitute olive oil) -about ½ cup
Salt and fresh-cracked pepper
Water

Cut the potatoes into large pieces.
In an ample pan, prepare a battuto of the lard (or oil), chopped garlic, and minced rosemary, warming them together for a few minutes. (The fragrance is intoxicating!) Add the potatoes, salt and pepper, then pour in water just until the potatoes are covered.
Boil slowly until the potatoes are soft and the liquid has thickened.
Serve hot. A light dusting of grated pecorino cheese or parmigiano would be nice, too.